In the shadow of Vesuvius, Naples hums with life. From the shores to the streets, a sensory feast unfolds where layers of history and culture are proudly served up – one plate at a time. There is a certain mysticism to this southern Italian port, where religion and the occult coexist, superstitions are taken seriously, and a network of underground curiosities hints at the city's vast and varied past. Fed by the rich Campania region, Naples also boasts an impressive – and inventive – culinary tradition that dates back centuries, and still holds strong today. But this is not a city that will rest on its laurels, and a new generation of Neapolitans are putting a modern twist on the city’s culture and cuisine — from innovative pizzaiolos and Michelin star chefs to artists and activists drawing from the past to paint a new vision of Naples.