Hungary’s capital, sprawled across the grand Danube River, has been shaped by over a thousand years of rich cultural influence. From Roman settlement to Ottoman rule, to rapid development as a seat of the powerful Austro-Hungarian Empire, Budapest has long been a centre of art, music, and innovation. The city has also drawn conflict, and been rebuilt and reimagined time and time again. Today, it is a juxtaposition of architectural grandeur interspersed with cozy, home-style eateries, tiny market stalls, and bars built among ruins. In this issue, our local guides take us everywhere – from a grand, art-nouveau bathhouse to a bar in someone’s living room; from the city’s stalwart Jewish eateries to a Michelin-starred restaurant challenging what Hungarian food can be. Across both sides of the Danube, over cups of coffee by day and pálinka by night, we delve into Budapest’s complex history and engage in conversations about its future.