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Fashion

[vc_row][vc_column width='1/5'][/vc_column][vc_column width='3/5'] In light of the recent presidential election in France–whose results further reflect the deepening political polarization throughout Europe and the Western world as a whole–we thought that Rejected: Designs for the European Flag would be a timely choice for this month’s installment of our Surprise Subscription. More
[vc_row][vc_column width='1/5'][/vc_column][vc_column width='3/5'] For a long time, the terms fashion and sustainability seemed contradictory. If anything, sustainably produced garments were clothes - but never fashion. Fortunately, the world has changed since then and there is now a new generation that no longer separates style and responsibility. The Lissome is a brainchild of this generation. More

Guido Palau, probably one of the most innovative and respected hairstylists in the world, is, as you can imagine, always busy. But that changed in the midst of the global pandemic when his non-stop schedule came to a halt. The creator of some of the most iconic hairstyles suddenly had time to himself - to pause, reflect and develop visions all his own. The book Hairtests is the result of this time. He used his mobile phone to document his creations, not to compile them in a photo book of finished works, but rather in a sketchbook, a collection of ideas. The result is truly ground-breaking. For as with all artists, their true vision is not revealed in collaboration, when they follow someone else's artistic direction, but in their personal projects. ⁠   Buy...

Through photography and text, Gothenburg-based artist Matilde Søes Rasmussen explores her time as a professional model. Having spent ten years in this role, she now turns her attention to questioning its power structures, beauty ideals, and objectification. ⁠ ⁠ ‘Unprofessional’ is a hybrid book that moves between documentary and fiction, performance and life, wherein she uses her own body to investigate how these structures impact self-image and identity. It is an attempt to find meaning in a career as a model, as an ever-changing character, and as something that is constantly being assessed, bought, sold, and admired. ⁠ ⁠ Rasmussen has decided to photograph back.⁠   Buy...

MJKVDL 2021 presents the first published overview of the experimental work of architect-turned-clothing designer Mark Jan Krayenhoff van de Leur.  After a 30 year career as an architect, Mark began experimenting with clothing design after he and his husband, the artist AA Bronson, relocated from New York to Berlin in 2013. His designs emerge from labour-intensive and formally unique processes, responding to problems or provocations raised by traditional approaches to garment construction and tailoring, and subverting established norms of production. Rather than a fashion collection, Mark’s clothes exist outside of capitalist cycles of seasonal production and consumption; each garment is unique and no multiples are made or sold.⁠ Designed in the layout of a fashion lookbook, the publication, however, shows in a very intimate way the garments that are imbued with autobiographical narratives. The very personal is underlined by the photographs, most of which were taken at home in the Berlin flat Mark shares with his husband.⁠⠀ Buy...

Coming soon from Taschen, ICONS showcases the historical collaboration between two iconic forces: (fashion) designer Virgil Abloh and Nike Inc.  Two big players who came together to reinvent ten iconic sneaker designs, from the Air Jordan 1 to Air Presto. ‚A minimum of two‘ seemed to be the magic formula when London-based Zak Group came on board to translate the sneaker-recontextualising, meta-cultural design project into book form. Since both Abloh and Zak Group are well-known for their trans-disciplinary, process-oriented work, they made the perfect match: not simply sneaker-heads, but perfectly positioned to transform consumer objects into cultural artifacts. We had a little chat with Zak Kyes about the making of the much-hyped, impossibly green volume.

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A special issue of A Magazine Curated By opens the doors to Floragatan 13 - the head office of Acne Studios in Stockholm. The ex-Czechoslovakian embassy evokes with its brutalist elements and concrete features the former Eastern Bloc, but once you enter ⁠stone carved furniture by Max Lamb already give you a hint that things are different here. Rooms in dusty pink, chairs in yellow leather, hangers full of samples, fabrics stuffed until the ceiling - the Acne Headquarters are designed to show the Acne-cool but also to bring to mind the experimental and ever changing structures of a fashion school. Because nothing kills innovation more than routine.⁠   Buy...

While temperatures dropping and leaves already start to fall, we got gifted with a printed never ending summer! After years Mirage Magazine is back with a fifth issue and we could not be more excited!⁠ There is something about the hedonistic lifestyle of the 60s and 70s: The French Riviera, Brigitte Bardot, Gunter Sachs, a seemingly never-ending fun, unfussy, intellectual but easy, moonlight baths, parties, naps in the hammock, artists, musicians, driving a classic car along the coastline, sailing, dancing on the terrace, reading by the pool - and everything in front of a backdrop of modernist architecture and eclectic interiors. ⁠Mirage Magazine, the brain child of Henrik Purienne, mixes nostalgic pictures from this wild era and contemporary photoshoots of beautiful woman with the same easiness into a bohemian futurism of glistening skin.⁠ Btw we still have some of the mirage books Jamais Vu left.⁠⠀ Buy...

Tiny but mighty! The new issue of Wallet is here...

African-American fashion designer Willi Smith, pioneer of streetwear and visionary collaborator, finally gets his due in an exuberant celebration of his life and work.⁠ Before Off-White, before Hood By Air, before Supreme, there was WilliWear. Willi Smith created inclusive and liberating fashion: “I don’t design clothes for the queen, but the people who wave at her as she goes by." ⁠This beautifully-made book, published in conjunction with the first ever exhibition of Willi Smith's work, is definitely one of our favourite new fashion titles from the past weeks and months!⁠ Buy...