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Fashion

Since the 16th century, all over the American continents, enslaved Africans have escaped their captors and founded their own communities or merged with indigenous peoples to form new identities. In his new series Cimarron - a Spanish-American term used to describe the fled slaves - Charles Fréger shows photographic portraits of their descendants today. In Brazil, Colombia, the Caribbean islands, Central America and the southern United States, masquerades are still staged today to celebrate and keep alive the history and cultural memory of African slaves and their descendants. Buy...

It is hard to imagine this now from the perspective of a society that continuously shares millions of images to the never-forgetting-world-wide-web, but there was a time when fashion collections would disappear into archives and not be remembered or seen anymore. Monument's aim is to permanently place the work of the Dutch Wave in our collective memory. With their second issue they focus on the work of Keupr/van Bentm and their critical and explorative position regarding the fashion system between the years 1997 and 2001.⁠ Buy...

Since quite a while the fashion industry is facing a groundbreaking paradigm change. If there is a good thing about late capitalism, environmental pollution, shortage of resources, exploitative labour it would be that we, 'the happy consumer and devil producer', are forced to change our mindset radically – and with it our notion of luxury. Luxury nowadays is about time, quality and care. Caring for our planet, the next generations and ourselves. What a new generation of fashion designers has to contribute to change the rules of the fashion industry can be seen in the latest issue of Press & Fold. A fashion magazine which is deeply concerned about alternative fashion forms and narratives. In this issue the author of Dissolving the Ego of Fashion Daniëlle Bruggeman explains why it is so necessarily important to leave the Fashion's Ego behind, a self-maintaining desire machine producing nothing else than shallow promises, the JOIN Collective Clothes project gives a glimpse into their work to make and wear clothes together as well as you can find out how fashion and intellect goes together pretty well these days as magazines like 032c, Vestoj and Purple practicing this for years. Press & Fold is a carefully thought through paper delight, a fashionable beauty which hopefully will sustain for a long, long time. Buy...

Once in a while we come across a new magazine that makes us feel we do not hold one of the first issues but a classic in our hands. Carcy is one of them. Its beautiful large format photographs, the use of font, and lots and lots of white space make it seem timeless. But do not be fooled to associate classic with generic content and old views. Because the lustful fashion magazine Carcy portrays all genders, identities, and sexualities in order to sublimate and widen notions of beauty and sensuality - and by that is undressing societal norms.⁠ Buy...

Pierpaolo Piccioli, the creative mind behind Valentino, decided when A Magazine Curated by asked him to create a whole magazine for them, to dedicate it entirely to Rome - his city of birth, the backdrop of his life, and endless source of inspiration. And so we find the latest issue of A Magazine Curated by filled with debaucherous dresses of feathers, silk, and sequins in tourist filled squares and in front of decaying walls, nuns on cellphones, grand architecture mutilated or adorned with street art, religious icons, and Roman beach life at Punta Borghese.⁠ Buy ...

"Figures of Speech" examines Virgil Abloh's creative work over the last twenty years. The book contains well-known, but also over 1,800 previously unknown images from Virgil's personal files and gives us insights into his creations in the fields of fashion, furniture, graphics, architecture and his collaboration with other creative people. In extensive essays, Abloh's work is examined through the lens of the African diaspora and the way he works in both high and subculture.⁠ ⁠ And if that's not enough for you, there is also a special edition. In typical Abloh sampling style, it's the book featured on the cover of this book. It comes with a cloth slipcase, “Personal Copy” silkscreened on the book’s fore edge, a measuring tape ribbon marker, and a flexi disc that includes a recording of Virgil Abloh discussing his inspirations, garnished with a Juergen Teller photo. ⁠ Buy...

The fashion world got turned upside down in recent years. While it all started with streetwear brands and street culture hacking luxury fashion, they now became a part of it. Balenciaga dad sneakers walk through every street of Berlin, Fendi prints Fila logos allover their designs, Louis Vuitton makes sweatpants, and Vêtements sells their clothes out of the back of a DHL truck in a counterfeit market setting.⁠It is the era of hype and early adopters, which turns teens and twenty something into the new luxury customer willing to spend enormes sums and to queue up for days to get their hands on the latest limited drop. Exclusivity is not (solely) created through a high price tag but through knowledge. It is not so easy anymore to buy into the group of the fashionable, you have to know your way around, understand the hybrids and quotes, the dynamics and collaborations. So who else than street culture authority Highsnobiety could explain better the changing face of the luxury market.⁠ Buy ...

When did it begin that our clothing stopped to be an expression of belonging? An act of identifying with a certain way of living or a social group? Turning the pages of not another ordinary fashion magazine provides an initial response: Quite a while ago...

This is the story about East Germany and West Africa and something that weaves them together.⁠ Photographer Chantal Seitz captures the unusual connection between a fabric production in the small town of Aue in the northern foothills of the Erzgebirge and traditional, festive African Boubous.⁠ The shimmering Damast from Europe is the preferred fabric for the robes worn by men for special occasions or the Friday prayer at the mosque. Boubous - a throw with wide, body-length sleeves, and loose trousers - are a status symbol. They are inherited from generation to generation. Families often get into debt to have this garment charged with symbolism made. The shinier the fabric, the finer its pattern, the more important the wearer. ⁠Seitz photographically contrasts the two worlds that could not be otherwise. On the one hand the German production halls, where remnants of the valuable fabric are used to cover lunch or computer screens, on the other hand venerably dressed believers from Senegal. In between the pages real pieces of Damast connect the two realities.⁠ Buy...

The small independent fan-zine (DIN A5) from Berlin, with an even smaller lettering (8.5 pt), has been delighting its loyal readers for over 13 years. While some conduct an interview, mono.kultur takes the art of dialogue to the extreme with its extended question-answer game. The idea behind is simple: one issue, one artist, one interview. Right on time for the latest issue with fashion designer Iris van Herpen we met Kai von Rabenau, the driving force behind mono.kultur, to talk about the subtle art of an interview. In order to not be embarrassed in front of the master of vis-à-vis, we asked our questions à la carte. So from now on the rule is: one card, one question - following the motto ‘Play it as it lays’.

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