Encircled by thick woods at the seat of a vast archipelago, Helsinki is a young city where a current of nascent pride cuts new paths and preserves the past.

Inside this issue:

The torikahvilat, the orange tents of Helsinki's market squares, with their famous breakfasts and apple-mash doughnuts.

The island of Seurasaari, where deep in the woods you'll find a centuries-old village, restored from along Finland's eastern borders.

The old-school gems of Helsinki's restaurant scene, institutions with classic Finnish fare and interior, unchanged in nearly a century.

The sweet smells and folkloric past of a Karelian bakery.