Step down into the koutoukia, Athens's traditional basement eateries, for long nights of retsina and rebetiko.

Join a running route through the mountains of Ymittos, where a local shares stories of the Athens marathon both ancient and modern.

Head to Piraeus for lunch at a bakalotaverna – a grocery store-taverna mashup – that's been serving port workers for over one hundred years.

Try house-made yoghurt drenched in honey at one of the city's last remaining dairy bars.